Those who are old enough might remember when rose was awful.
Back in the 1960s and 1970s, most rose wines came from the central San Joaquin Valley in California and from Portugal, often in ceramic bottles. And they were generally made from mediocre grapes using methods that today would be considered antediluvian.
Their key feature was sugar. Many were so sweet that I almost gagged on them. Some were being promoted as a perfect all-purpose wine because they would go with either fish or meat.
It was a lie. The pink wines back then were frequently not even pink; orange was their usual pigmentation due to frequent oxidization.
All of that has changed. Today, most rose wines are made with infinitely more care, using superior grapes, such as pinot noir and grenache. The biggest difference is that most of the wines are dry or off-dry.
This has led to people recalling the old adage about the wine being paired with both meat and fish.
Most of today's fine pink wines are interesting in that they don't require much chilling. The best bottles can be absolutely delightful when served just cool.
That's because they usually contain sufficient acidity, so too much chilling might harm their delicate fragrances and food compatibility.
Here are a few pointers on purchasing:
Buy varietal roses: Pinot noir from cooler areas can produce gorgeous fragrances, attractive, midpalate flavors and a crispness just perfect for either sipping by itself or pairing with lighter foods. I'm also a huge fan of grenache roses. Generic rose wines are usually variable.
Watch the alcohols: The best roses tend to be about 11% alcohol. Once the alcohol level rises above 12%, I get a little concerned about the weight of the wine. Lighter-weight rose wines tend to be better balanced. Any rose above 13.5% alcohol is probably not going to be well balanced.
Chill to taste: Like any recipe that suggests adding salt "to taste," a fine rose might not need much chilling. I prefer them cooler rather than intensely iced. When the wine reaches the right temperature for you, take it out of the ice bucket and return it only when it warms up.
Watch the region: California produces excellent roses from cooler regions such as the Russian River Valley, Monterey County and the Sonoma Coast. One of the more reliable regions in France is Provence, where cinsault and grenache often combine to make stellar floral roses. However, even warmer regions make excellent rose wines if the wine-making is precise.
Wine of the Week: 2023 Domaine de Triennes Rose, Provence ($17) — This wine is almost always one of the most reliable French versions of rose. Even the prior vintage (2022) still tastes great. The winemaker's notes for this wine: "A compelling bouquet of strawberries and white flowers with a touch of vanilla. Expressive and elegant, the palate offers mouthwatering freshness. An embodiment of the Mediterranean. Cinsault with Grenache, Syrah, and Merlot." Often discounted to about $15.
Dan Berger lives in Sonoma County, California, where he publishes "Vintage Experiences," a weekly wine newsletter. Write to him at winenut@gmail.com. To find out more about Dan Berger and read features by other Creators Syndicate writers and cartoonists, visit the Creators Syndicate webpage at www.creators.com.